How Escaramuza’s Daring Riders Redefine Tradition and High Fashion
Fashion meets tradition as Dior's former designer Maria Grazia Chiuri and models Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid draw inspiration from the vibrant, all-female equestrian sport of escaramuza. Photographer Constance Jaeggi has spent two years capturing the essence of this sport for her exhibition and upcoming book, 'Escaramuza: The Poetics of Home'.
Escaramuza, a five- to 10-minute performance in the charrería competition, is known for its elaborate costumes. Riders wear tiered Victoriana dresses that cover their horses' haunches, a stark contrast to the less rigorous uniform inspections for male riders. Despite the strict rules, such as the prohibition of glitter and beading, women in escaramuza feel weighed down by the sport's essentialist views on gender. However, they maintain their traditions and culture while pushing against gender boundaries.
Underneath their dresses, riders wear petticoats and bloomers, both of which must be meticulously steamed for competitions. Jaeggi's book features vibrant portraits of these beautifully dressed women, accompanied by poems written by Mexican-American writers Ire'ne Lara Silva and Angelina Sáenz. The poems, according to Lara Silva, serve as a tool for reclaiming identity and challenging traditional gender roles, exploring the experiences of women in Chicana culture and questioning societal expectations through bilingual expression and personal narrative. During performances, riders execute an elaborate synchronized routine while riding side-saddle, their dresses becoming fast-moving flurries of color as they gallop across the arena.
The influence of escaramuza on high fashion is undeniable, with designers like Chiuri and models like Jenner and Hadid drawing inspiration from the traditional costumes. Jaeggi's 'Escaramuza: The Poetics of Home' not only captures the beauty and vibrancy of the sport but also sheds light on the complex interplay of tradition, gender, and identity within this unique cultural practice.
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